Kulich and Paskha

This year I was very pleased with the way my kulich and paskha turned out.
These notes on well known recipes are for Abby, my son's fiance.

Kulich:
1/2 cup of hot milk + 100 g flour - make a paste
1/2 cup of warm milk + 57g of fresh yeast (1 package) + 100 g flour - mix together
Combine both mixes and let stand for about an hour (covered).
Take 10 egg yolks and mix with 250 g sugar and 1/4 teaspoon of salt (mix until egg yolks turn lemony-yellow, about 3 min). Take half of this mixture and combine with the yeast mixture + 250 g flour. Mix well. Let stand for another hour.
Add another half of the yolk mixture and another 250 g of flour. Mix well and add 200 g melted butter, 1 teaspoon vanilla, 1/3 teaspoons of cardamom and nutmeg, and 2 tablespoons of rum. Add flower (3-4 handfuls) if necessary (a tricky part), and mix until the dough stops sticking to your hands (it took me about 10 min by hand). Let rise for another hour. Add 1 cup of raisins, let rise for 15 min, and put in buttered coffee cans, or any containers that will help make a well-known kulich shape. Let rise for 10 min, and bake at 350 F until ready (about 30 min).
When cooled off a bit, make a paste of confectioner's sugar + lemon juice and cover the top of kulich.

Paskha:

3 lb of Farmer cheese
1 1/4 cup of heavy cream
1/2 lb butter
1/4 lb sour cream
3 eggs
1 lb sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup raisins
Mix Farmer cheese with butter, sugar, sour cream, whipped heavy cream, eggs, vanilla and raisins. Place in a cheese cloth inside the mold. Place some weight on top, and put everything in a fridge (a plate to collect liquid should be under the mold).
Let stand this way for two days, unmold when ready to eat.

A low calorie dessert I use instead (not for Easter) is Farmer cheese mixed with sour cream and raisins.

Easter Eggs from a Bosnian recipe

I used a very interesting Bosnian recipe to dye my Russian Easter eggs. I've never tried onion skins as a dye. I have been collecting the skins for quite a while for dying yarn; however this beautiful method presented on the website above was too much of a temptation!

My Recipe:

I used 4 oz of yellow onion skins, 2 tablespoons of white vinegar and enough water to cover the skins. I boiled eggs in water first (about 5 min); meanwhile the skins were simmering on low in another pot.. I took eggs out and placed flowers and leaves on them, covering eggs with nylon stockings, and tying each stocking with a string (did not use rubber bands, but will next time: some of the designs did not come out as sharp as Ozanna's, probably because the rubber bands would have helped keeping the stockings tighter around the eggs.) Each batch (5 eggs) simmered different time giving them color variations. I was truly amazed by the intensity of brown/burnt orange color! Can't wait to dye yarn with the onion skins!
For darker colors eggs were simmering about 1/2 hour. When they were all done, my husband rubbed them with some olive oil to make them shiny.
Plants used: forthysia (cross-shaped design), periwinkle, dandelion leaves, and some others.

Various mittens

I have been busy with mittens these past few weeks: beautiful Marco's mittens design from Nancy Bush " Folk Knitting in Estonia", and a free design from Maschas Maschen on Ravelry using Riihivilla naturally dyed yarns (the mitten on the left). I changed the Ravelry design incorporating Kihnu Troi cast on, and a couple of Kihnu Vits braids (love them)!

Rupture sweater aka Evening Gala Aran

I knitted this sweater during the unplanned free time while recovering from the torn meniscus surgery - hence the name: rupture. First I wanted to name it “Torn meniscus”, but my husband advised against it, and suggested “Rupture” instead.
I did not feel like adding feathers and other bells and whistles.

Florentine Garden top

I made this top for my son's wedding next summer. The idea came from some random crochet flowers and leaves, and grew as I was choosing yarns for the project. An ivory-colored silk came from an e-bay seller, the rest: two interesting natural-colored silks, from Habu yarn store.

Habu top

I enjoyed working with this yarn, even though it is a bit “weird” - does not feel like silk at all, more like some mix of cotton/linen. The fabric has a slight sheen, or a kind of almost glow. I used much bigger needles to achieve an airy feel. Sleeves and hem are crocheted, the body is seed stitch.

Cinque Terre Beaches

This post is a deviation from my usual knitting/crochet theme, however I felt compelled to add it.

This summer we traveled to Italy, and spent five days in Vernazza, Cinque Terre, walking the trails, swimming, and enjoying sunshine. The following review is a humble tribute to this beautiful place.

Beaches in Cinque Terre fall into three categories: public and easily accessible, public with a challenging/difficult access, and a nudist beach. This summer we hiked the trail between five villages, and had ample opportunities to sample the majority of them.

The most “civilized” and crowded was a beach in Monterosso. To reach it, simply take the train that goes between villages, or hike the trail: the views are spectacular! The beach has sand and small pebbles; you can either choose to pay for an umbrella and a chair, enjoying the roped off section, or settle in a free area with your own towel, etc. There are plenty of places to have lunch or gelato right there, but overall this beach is a bit too crowded for my taste.

There are public beaches in each of the five villages: differences between them are not very significant. In Riomaggiore go down the steps as you finish hiking the Via dell' Amore (a part of the Cinque Terre Blue Trail), and enjoy a small beach with rather large pebbles and rocks. No umbrellas or chairs here, the water is clean (as generally on all beaches), and the village is right above you. Every now and then a sightseeing boat makes its noisy appearance, unloading a new group of travelers.

Vernazza has a sandy beach where local people prefer to swim; the area is shallow and roped off from the marina. If you walk to the left of it facing the sea, you can swim from the pier; to the right there are some rocks to sunbathe and another access to the water. This beach is right next to the town square, so food is never far away.

Two beaches near Manarola can be reached from the trail between Manarola and Corniglia. Start in Manarola, and go towards Corniglia until you see steps leading down to the water. There is a small swimming area consisting of a few rocks and a concrete pier from which there is a ladder leading to the water. The place can be packed, though. If you wish for a more secluded spot, walk down the trail a little longer.

The name of this second place is “Punta Buonfiglio”. There are again steps leading down, however the last couple of them are broken, and there is a rope to assist in stepping on the rocks below (not a mounting climbing type of exercise, but requires some fitness). A tiny beach rewards with crystal clear water, and picturesque rocks. Bring a sandwich and enjoy a few hours of swimming and sunbathing.

One of the least crowded is the nudist Guvano beach. There are two ways to reach it. One is through the abandoned railroad tunnel that starts near Corniglia. We did not use this way. Instead you can hike the trail between Vernazza and Corniglia. Somewhere halfway along the trail you will see a hand drawn sign “Spiaggia Libera, 20 min”, which translates as “Free public beach, 20 min”. Take this narrow winding, almost hidden in the thick vegetation trail, and after approximately 20 min of descent arrive to an old road connecting two abandoned railroad tunnels. Walk to your left to a stone stairway down to the beach. It is indeed free, very clean, with many rocks to shelter from the hot sun. The best time to come is in the morning; later the place becomes more populated, but never overwhelmingly so. Obviously, you don’t have to be a nudist to enjoy it. There are no accommodations, or food sources nearby, so bring all your necessities along. The hike back to Vernazza or Corniglia will take about an hour, depending on how fast you will be going.

Top "Firenze"

While vacationing in Italy this summer, we saw plenty of white lacy tops and skirts - the last fashion trend there. That’s why I called this top “Firenze” - Italian for Florence.


I used Elann "Soie Lin" yarn - linen and silk combo; very pleasant to work with.

Skinny rib sweater

I changed this pattern quite a bit making it a sweater instead of a cardigan, and crocheting trims.
My only complain with the yarn is the number of knots in every skein: at least one, sometimes more!

Shaped Laced Tee

I finished this one really fast: just on time for Spring!

Amigurumi Elephant

This little guy was made following Thready Bears
pattern.
I made it for a little girl, a friend's daughter. It was an easy pattern to follow, and something I have not done for a while.

Nomad Socks

I designed these in a couple of evenings: it was an inspiration of the yarn. Mellow Camel from Taiga Yarns
is a rough yarn, but suitable for Tapestry Crochet socks.

Free Pattern
(for personal use only)

Materials:

1 skein Taiga Yarns “Mellow Camel” in Beige (100% Camel Wool, 200 m (218 yards), 100 g (3.5 oz) skein)

1 skein Taiga Yarns “Mellow Camel” in Black (100% Camel Wool, 200 m (218 yards), 100 g (3.5 oz) skein)

Size 0 (2,5 mm) crochet hook (or size required to obtain gauge)

Abbreviations:

Sc – single crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

Ch – chain

St - stitch

Rnd – round

RS – right side

Rep - repeat

Lp – loop

WS – wrong side

Techniques used:

Tapestry crochet

Reversed tapestry crochet

Important

Finished dimensions folded flat: circumference of the foot – 10”, length of the foot – 11”. The size can be adjusted by measuring the foot and crocheting accordingly.

Gauge:

6 sc and 4 rounds = 1”

The socks are crocheted from the toe up.

Toe:

Starting row: With Beige ch 10, sl st in second ch from hook, sl st in every ch across – 9 sl st.

Rnd 1: Crocheting in the unworked (bottom lps of the beginning chain), sc in each ch, pivot work, sc in every sl st of the starting row – 18 sc.

Rnd 2: You will use 1 sc in Black on each side of the sock, crocheting the rest of the st in Beige. *2 sc in Beige in the sc prior to Black, 1 sc in Black, 2 sc in Beige in the sc after the Black*, repeat from * to * once – 22 sc.

Rnd 3 and 4: Proceed as Rnd 2.

Rnd 5: Introduce Pattern 1 for the top of the foot (make sure to center the pattern), and Sole pattern for the sole using Black.

Foot:

Continue following patterns and increasing at the sides as established until you will have 52 sc total (25 for the top and the sole, and 2 at the sides).

Important! Adjust the number of sc according to your own foot.

Continue without increasing, following patterns as established. After completing Pattern 1, introduce Pattern 2 symmetrically on both sides of the top of the foot. Continue until foot reaches just below anklebone. Do not fasten off!

Heel:

You are now will be working in Reverse Tapestry Crochet (flat, not curcular as previously), making the sole part of the heel.

Row 1(RS): With Black sc starting from the side sc (worked in Black) make 27 sc, turn.

Row 2: With Black sc in first sc and each sc across, turn.

Row 3: Following Pattern 3, sc in each sc across, leaving last sc unworked, turn – 26 sc.

Rep Row 3 until 9 sc remain, turn.

Heel Increase:

For the heel increase you will be working only in Black, carrying Beige along (as done for Tapestry crochet).

Row 1 (WS): Sc in 9 sc, sc in side edge of heel, sc in closest unworked st on the side, sl st in side edge, turn – 11 sc.

Row 2: Skip sl st, sc in 11 sc, sc in side edge of heel, sc in closest unworked st on the side, sl st in side edge, turn – 13 sc.

Row 3: Skip sl st, sc in 13 sc, sc in next unworked st down side of heel, turn – 14 sc.

Rows 4 – 10: Rep row 3, inc 1 sc in each row

Row 11: Skip sl st, sc in 20 sc, sc in next unworked st down side of heel, turn – 21 sc.

Row 12: Skip sl st, sc in 21 sc, sc in next unworked st down side of heel, sl st in side edge of heel. Do not turn. Pick up and crochet 5 sc on the side, then 25 sc on the front part of the foot, then 5 sc on the other side. Continue working in the round.

Crochet 2 rnds in Black, then continue in Pattern 4 finishing with the last rnd in Beige.

Amigurumi Bear

I crochet this cute little guy for the class on Amigurumi Toys I am teaching in my school. So he is a sample. More to follow...

Yarn used: leftovers wool. Crochet hook size H. A couple of beads for eyes.

Pattern: Free from Lion Brand Yarn
http://www.lionbrand.com/content-crochetPatternIndex.html

Jorabs - Ethnic socks

I was inspired to knit/crochet these socks by several pictures of ethnic Pamir/Azeri/Turkmen socks called "jorabs". I also enjoyed the book "Ethnic Socks and Stockings" by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts, and it was all it took to motivate me.
There are plenty of good patterns; this one is an interpretation of an existing one. I changed it quite a bit, and added a tapestry crochet cuff as an afterthought. I enjoyed the process; the needles - Holtz&Stein were perfect for the job. Now I am addicted...

Red Carpet Convertible Corset

This project took a while because I had to redesign a few features. The front did not want to look the way it is now unless I recalculated the number of stitches and adjusted their sequence. I also increased a bit below the waist to accommodate for better fit.
I would not recommend this pattern for a beginner!
Yarn used is 100% silk from Sara's Yarns.
Needles size 8.

Härkmeri mittens

It took about two weeks (with other projects going on) to knit one mitten. The pattern comes from "Decorative crocheting" book by Marketta Luutonen. The whole idea of decorative or tapestry crochet is amazing! The most beautiful Korsnas sweaters are made this way. I love the fact that unlike Fair Isle knitting where you have length of yarn running behind your work, tapestry crochet allows for long interruptions in color with alternate yarn neatly tucked within the row. For my next pair (I am going to design it myself) I will use some of the smaller Fair Isle designs.

Maimu's Mittens

Just finished the first one, and had to post it: with all the holiday's craze I am not sure when the other one will be ready.
My inspiration was the wonderful pattern from the "Folk Knitting in Estonia" by Nancy Bush. I changed the pattern somewhat, and used different yarns: Romney wool (the natural color), Super Yak (the reddish one), and 100% camel (light brown). All yarns were heavier than required in the pattern resulting in much warmer fabric: just as I intended. I really enjoyed the pattern and the process; can't wait to finish the second mitten!

Swallowtail Shawl

Finally finished it: it took me a while since it is my very first lace shawl. I really love the process, and especially the part when a shawl "opens up" and becomes a shawl - after washing and blocking. Pure magic!

I used silk/cashmere blend from http://www.yubina.com
a very fine and delicate yarn. Pictures can't really convey the beauty of the color.
I guess, I will be knitting another shawl soon...

Habu Cardigan

I started this cardigan in August, and of course now when it is ready the weather turned cool, and I will have to wait until spring to wear it.
Oh, well...
The knitting was fun: I used Habu Linen Paper in red, and Tsumugi silk in color 14. This combination was a kit for a long-sleeved jacket, but I designed my own, and very please with the result. I even have some leftover yarn for a top.

Attitude Top

I knitted it a while ago, using Classic Elite "Attitude" (85% Pima Cotton, 15% Silk), needle size 8 US, but only published it now. The idea of the pattern came from one of the Filatura di Crosa patter booklets, but I changed the design quite a bit.
It is a very pleasant to wear top, and I really like the yarn.